Identity
Zinc Pyrithione is the zinc complex of 2-mercaptopyridine-N-oxide, an aromatic zinc compound. In cosmetics it has functioned in three roles at once: anti-dandruff agent, antiseborrhoeic agent and preservative, which is why it previously appeared in two separate annexes of the EU Cosmetics Regulation under different conditions depending on which role it was performing.
On United States packaging it is declared as Pyrithione Zinc rather than Zinc Pyrithione. The words are reversed, the molecule is the same, and both forms resolve to this entry.
Development & history
The compound entered anti-dandruff shampoo in the mid twentieth century and became one of the most widely used actives in the category worldwide, anchoring several of the largest shampoo brands on the market.
Its removal from EU cosmetics ran through a chain of decisions rather than a single safety finding. In 2020 the CLP Regulation was amended by Commission Delegated Regulation (EU) 2020/1182, giving the substance a harmonised classification as toxic for reproduction, category 1B. Under the Cosmetics Regulation, a CMR 1A or 1B substance may be used only by exception, and one of the conditions is a documented absence of suitable alternatives. An application was made in 2019 to keep it as an anti-dandruff agent in rinse-off hair products at up to 1%. The SCCS reviewed the safety question and answered it favourably in March 2020. The alternatives condition was the one that failed. Commission Regulation (EU) 2021/1902 followed in October 2021, and the prohibition took effect on 1 March 2022.
Mechanism (as proposed)
Dandruff is associated with colonisation of the scalp by Malassezia yeasts and with the flaking and irritation that accompany it. Zinc pyrithione is proposed to act principally as an antifungal, reducing the Malassezia population on the scalp and with it the scaling response.
A secondary proposal concerns zinc transport. The complex is thought to increase intracellular copper and zinc levels in fungal cells, disrupting iron-sulfur cluster proteins and impairing metabolism. Because the substance is poorly soluble, its performance in a shampoo depends heavily on particle size and on how much of it remains on the scalp after rinsing, which is why substantivity rather than raw concentration tends to distinguish formulations in comparative testing.
Related reading
Our coverage of anti-dandruff shampoos examines the actives in this category side by side. See also our scalp care writing for the broader question of treating the scalp as skin.