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Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 & Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 Research reference — not for sale
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 & Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Peptide
also called — - Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 = Pal-GHK (palmitoylated Gly-His-Lys) · trade name Biopeptide CL · trade name SYN-COLL (DSM).
- INCI: as named. (Both are cosmetic INCI ingredients.)
skin appearance (cosmetic)fine lines & firmness(reference:) collagen/ECM signalling
Cosmetic signal peptides — the "collagen-signal" archetype (like Matrixyl #28), with the same claim trap. Two related but distinct collagen-signalling peptides. Mechanistically among the better-grounded cosmetic peptides and very well tolerated — but the standalone human evidence is mostly manufactu
In brief
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (Pal-GHK) and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (Pal-KVK / SYN-COLL) are signal peptides proposed, like Matrixyl, to tell skin fibroblasts to make collagen — Tripeptide-1 as a GHK matrikine, Tripeptide-5 by activating TGF-β. They are mechanistically plausible and very well tolerated, but the standalone human evidence is mostly manufacturer/in-vitro (thinner than Matrixyl's single split-face RCT), and most of the human data for Tripeptide-1 is actually for the Matrixyl 3000 combination, not the peptide alone. They are cosmetic ingredients only.
Legal standing, by region
European Union
Lawful cosmetic
lawful cosmetic ingredients (EU Regulation (EC) 1223/2009; US cosmetic law), sold over-the-counter worldwide. No injectable/research lane. Sellable as cosmetics — the constraint is the claims.
Evidence, by outcome
An honest grade per outcome — drawn from the evidence, not any catalogue. Hype and undemonstrated marketing claims grade low.
OutcomeEvidence base · effectGrade
Topical: appearance of fine lines / firmness — Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Standalone human RCT is thin; most human data is for the Matrixyl 3000 combo, not the peptide alone
Mechanistic (GHK matrikine, TGF-β) + Matrixyl 3000 combination studies · Plausible improvement
CTopical: appearance — Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 (SYN-COLL)
Manufacturer-dominated; preliminary
Manufacturer studies + TSP-1/TGF-β mechanism · Preliminary improvement
CCollagen / ECM stimulation (both)
In vitro; reported magnitudes are largely manufacturer-derived
In-vitro (TGF-β pathway; collagen I/III, fibronectin) · Stimulates in vitro
CSafety (both, topical)
Good safety; no photosensitivity; suitable for sensitive skin
Broad cosmetic use · Well tolerated, non-irritating
—Cosmetic claims boundary
✓ Allowed (appearance / feel)
- for the **appearance** of firmer, plumper, smoother skin
- helps reduce the **look** of fine lines.
✕ Not allowed (medicinal)
- boosts / stimulates / increases **collagen**
- collagen-boosting
- activates TGF-β
- rebuilds collagen
- by function
The medicinal-sounding science stays in the reference section; product copy speaks only to appearance/feel (Reg 655/2013). Different fields, never merged.
Identity two synthetic palmitoylated tripeptide signal peptides (3 aa + C16 palmitoyl tail; < 40 aa → peptides), each proposed to signal fibroblasts to build extracellular matrix — but by different routes:
- Tripeptide-1 (Pal-GHK): a matrikine — the GHK sequence derives from the C-terminal region of the α2 chain of collagen I and acts as a repair signal via the TGF-β pathway.
- Tripeptide-5 (Pal-KVK): a TGF-β activator — mimics the KRFK sequence of thrombospondin-1 (TSP-1), which activates latent TGF-β. ## Development & history - Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 was developed by Sederma (France) as part of its Matrikine platform (late 1990s; "Biopeptide CL"), and became prominent as a component of Matrixyl 3000 (launched ~2003), paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (Pal-GQPR / Rigin), an anti-inflammatory peptide.
- Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 was developed by DSM (Pentapharm) as SYN-COLL.
- Both have only ever been cosmetic ingredients, never drugs. ## Mechanism (as proposed) - Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1: the GHK matrikine is proposed to bind fibroblast receptors (TGF-β / integrin signalling) and upregulate collagen I/III, fibronectin and elastin — mimicking the collagen-degradation repair signal without actual degradation.
- Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5: proposed to mimic thrombospondin-1 and activate latent TGF-β, which in turn signals procollagen synthesis; also reported to reduce MMP activity.
- In both, the palmitoyl tail aids skin penetration; most characterisation is in vitro, and the in-vivo effect is modest.
Sources — 4 cited
01Sederma / Croda — Matrixyl 3000 (Pal-GHK + Pal-GQPR) technical and clinical documentation.
02DSM — SYN-COLL (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5) documentation.
03Pickart L, et al. — foundational GHK matrikine research (mechanistic grounding for Pal-GHK).
04Robinson LR, et al. (2005) — the class-defining signal-peptide RCT (Matrixyl / Pal-KTTKS).
Review status
Not yet reviewed
A credentialed reviewer (PharmD / PhD / MD) will be named before this entry is finalised. Until then, treat it as a working draft. Last updated July 2026.
Grades reflect the published evidence, not our interest. No dosing, reconstitution, or administration is published for research compounds — that restraint is deliberate.
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Region — United States
This site provides neutral scientific reference and sells only products lawful in your region. Nothing here is medical advice, a recommendation, or an offer to supply unapproved medicines. No dosing or administration is published for research compounds. Cosmetic peptides per Regulation (EC) 1223/2009. Unapproved injectable peptides are neither sold nor advertised in the EU (Directive 2001/83/EC, Title VIII). © 2026 Vallydia SL — Registered in Spain.