Identity
a synthetic hexapeptide (6 amino acids, < 40 aa → peptide), N-acetylated, patterned on the N-terminal end of SNAP-25 (a SNARE-complex protein and a target of botulinum toxin). Introduced ~2001 by Lipotec (now Lubrizol); the underlying peptide is now off-patent and widely synthesised.
Development & history
- Developed by the Spanish biotech Lipotec and introduced around 2001; the first efficacy report was Blanes-Mira et al. 2002 (Int J Cosmet Sci). It was marketed from the outset on a "topical botox" analogy to botulinum toxin.
- After the underlying peptide's patents lapsed, it became widely available from multiple manufacturers under its INCI name, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8. Lipotec was acquired by Lubrizol (2012), which owns the Argireline® trade name. It has only ever been a cosmetic ingredient — never developed as a drug.
Mechanism (as proposed)
Ac-EEMQRR-NH₂ mimics the N-terminal of SNAP-25 and is proposed to compete for SNARE-complex assembly, attenuating Ca²⁺-dependent acetylcholine exocytosis at the neuromuscular junction and thereby reducing contraction of facial-expression muscles. This differs fundamentally from botulinum toxin (which enzymatically cleaves SNAP-25 for an irreversible, injected effect). The mechanism is largely characterised in vitro; whether enough peptide crosses intact skin at cosmetic concentrations to act on the NMJ is doubtful.
Related reading
How the neurotransmitter ("topical Botox") peptides like Argireline fit into a routine — and why this class is the most oversold — in how to use peptides. For where Argireline ranks among the cosmetic peptides by evidence, see cosmetic peptides ranked by evidence — and the full investigation of the "does it work?" question in does Argireline work?.